m.a+ by Maurizio Amadei
An experimentalist at heart, Maurizio Amadei’s fascination with structure is evident when studying his garments. Often utilizing minimal use of seams, his methods of construction seem very simple at first glance but turn out to be far more complex upon closer inspection. Many pieces of his label m.a+, such as knit cotton shirts and leather bags, are constructed from a single piece of material resulting in unique and innovative cuts. Elements of his style can be recognized from his work at Carpe Diem, the cult label where Amadei worked alongside creator Maurizio Altieri and a group of other designers – many of whom have ventured into designing their own labels.
Amadei’s interest in garment design grew from an early age when he already recognized his taste to be different from most others. Born, raised and taught in Rome, Amadei moved to London and began designing his own garments. Following the dissolution of Carpe Diem, Amadei began working on a project that soon developed into his own label, m.a+. Pronounced “m-a cross”, “cross” or “across”, as Amadei prefers to call it, the label reflected a very artisanal approach to making clothes while sticking to Amadei’s signature style of minimal but unique patterns. Another typical element is the use of hand crafted silver in buttons, accessories and of course, in the small cross that marks all m.a+ leather pieces. Scoute talked to the designer who is willing to take things as they come and doesn’t lock himself into a particular frame of mind.
What is it about garment design that excites you?
I find the structure of the body fascinating and appreciate how skin compliments this. I look at garments as a second skin, a second skin, which can become part of the body. I always liked using my hands to produce things. I had fairly particular taste when I was young, always different to what was around me.
Tell about the birth of m.a+.
The first collection consisted of just bags and it was part of Project Seven organized by Lift in Tokyo. I simply signed them with a cross (+). I had so much invaluable support from many dear friends, that I felt encouraged not only to continue but to expand the line. For the second collection I added my initials to the “+” so it became m.a+. The idea of crossing and the word “across” provide a lot of meaning to the label, whether it be about meeting points, cuts or end results.
Going back in time a bit, tell about the time when you worked with Carpe Diem.
Those days were such a special period, especially at the start. In the early times there was so much great energy, in-depth research and continuous flow of ideas. They were such nice and strong years, but in the end the story became closed by so many definitions that had too heavy a meaning for the customers, and left us no more room to move creatively.
I’ve viewed a few collections now at your Paris showroom, which isn’t a very typical setting. I take that the space is very important to you?
We show in an apartment near the city center. It’s on the third floor with large windows and we can see a lot of sky which is pretty unusual for a showroom, let alone one in the city. I like the apartment context and so do the clients because it is a naturally friendly environment. We have our quiet moments and the ideal moments when we have just our scheduled rendezvous’. Sometimes a lot of people show up at once and it can then feel like a small party.
Moving onto the garments, innovative structure and patterns seem to be essential in your pieces.
I planned to be an architect before I got into fashion, so I am very much about layout and structure. It is largely why I love this work. How I think is often expressed in the structure of my pieces. Again, it’s that crossing feeling of how something can find its way across to meet another thing. As for patterns, I need to appreciate the two dimensional layout before the stitching permits it to become three dimensional.
Some of your signature pieces of clothing as well as accessories and footwear are leather, do you consider it your favourite material?
I do feel an affinity with its ductile nature. But I’m also drawn to the basic ancient and primal idea of using the skin of hunted food as part of life. However, fabric, especially at the moment is giving me lots of stimulation. Most of my fabrics are made in small workshops with whom I have a very close relationship. It’s so interesting to take part in the mixing of yarns, traditions, technologies, and shared experiences to find new ways and new outcomes.
The operation behind m.a+ is very compact, can you tell more about the manufacturing process?
Everything is handcrafted. For the shoes, I work with a Tuscan artisanal shoe maker and all else is done by my team at our workshop situated in a green valley in the Roman countryside.
What about the design process?
There are many directions, and its often random why I take a particular one. Sometimes I take some fabric, wrap it around my body and put a stitch here and there to see how I can wear it with the minimum amount of cutting and seams. Sometimes, contrary to the gist of design, I like to let something just unfold and reveal itself. Then there are times when there is a specific project or piece to do, and then it can be like playing Snakes and Ladders. I have a strong and tight team of experienced artisans, and each one brings his own knowledge into the design process, from the idea to the cut, stitching and treatments..
So how do these ideas form?
My ideas are often unintentional occurrences. It’s all out there and there is a lot of chance to take if you accept it. However, I’m very drawn to how things relate to one anther and when I see it, I love to visualize and express it. More ideas will usually flow from this.
Do you usually have a clear direction with new collections, or is it more of a flow of ideas as you mentioned?
I do like to let them just take form, but more and more I can’t afford not to take care of what’s happening and what could happen. So it’s not so much a direction I have, but notions, some of them clearer than others, of where the collection needs to go.
Do you have any particular vision for future collections?
I hope to release a signature bag that will sell millions, followed by a similar success with a fragrance that will drive the label into the next decade after which m.a+ will be bought out and then open stores on every high end street……NOT! I don’t know, for the moment I want to just keep researching and finding new ways whilst consolidating my distinct style. Whatever that may be.
see the Scoute blog for images from Maurizio’s atelier
www.maurizioamadei.com
Written by Arto M.