Nicolas Andreas Taralis
When growing up in Toronto, Nicolas Andreas Taralis had an interest towards art and design from a young age. With a passion and clear determination to work in a creative field, he soon found himself in the world of fashion. After studying at Parsons in New York for two years, however, he realized that his dreams and future were much further away. Taralis has come a long way since hopping on a plane to Europe – after studying and working with some of the greatest minds in mens fashion, he has worked with Dior Homme and Cerruti, created his own label, worked on numerous projects around the world and generated somewhat of a cult following for his renowned style. Scoute talked to the designer, who recently made the decision to continue his own line in the form of a mens collection for spring 2009.
What would you say are the things that got you interested in fashion and design?
I’ve always been interested in art, design, architecture and any creative medium. I ended up going to an art high school, like the film ‘Fame’, if you remember, and there was never any doubt that I would pursue something in that direction. The question was always what. There wasn’t one specific moment or light bulb turning on; it was just a very gradual process where I slowly realized that I was more interested in (or suited to) applied arts rather than fine arts. I still have a huge interest in that too, but I think the idea of applying my ideas to functional projects just suited me better. I was always watching either fashion programs or documentaries on famous architects and well, one thing led to the next and I had to make a choice. I chose fashion.
How did you make the decision to leave New York?
I had spent 2 years at Parsons and although NYC was a great experience, I was really longing to live in Europe, speak other languages and simply impregnate myself with the history and culture that I had become to know from my summers spent with family in Germany as a child.
Tell about your time studying in Vienna.
That was a wonderful time for me. I found out that Helmut [Lang] was professor at the arts university in Vienna at the time, so I got on a plane and tried my luck. I was accepted and stayed almost 4 years. It was the polar opposite of Parsons – free, arty, bohemian, and even a bit anarchic – this appealed to me strongly. In addition, it was a fantastic time to be there because of the contemporary artists and music scene during the mid-nineties. And it was a big university town, so that’s always great.
Would you say this had a strong effect on who you are today?
All this was an undeniable influence on me as a person as well as professionally. Fundamentally, what I feel now aesthetically describes me, was formed during my time in Vienna.
Studying under Lang and working with Hedi Slimane were of course great opportunities for you.
I never forgot one slight of hand remark that Helmut made when I just got to Vienna: “at the end of the day, people just want to look sexy and feel good about themselves.” This pragmatism and honesty just really stuck with me and it’s so true. From Hedi, I took an understanding of the big picture, that all the small details are so fundamental, but it’s nothing if there is no whole image.
Speaking of Hedi, how did you end up working with Dior Homme?
I sent him my CV and 3 drawings. We met, and it went like that… lucky break.
Wow, indeed! Now having worked both under your own name and other labels, which do you prefer?
They are totally different experiences, each with their own benefits and drawbacks. It’s impossible to compare. But such is life, nothing is perfect and you’re forced to compromise in whatever situation you find yourself and whatever you do. Also, the preference changes with time; right now I feel very good being independent again, in spite of the difficult global economic situation that we find ourselves in.
What about Cerruti, how did you end up working there?
I was approached by the investment fund that purchased the company in 2006 with the dream of making it into a global player in the luxury goods market.
So what happened?
The project sounded exciting, the people motivated, and I was assured full support on the ideas that I had for the brand and the time that I requested to pull it through. The reality however was unfortunately very different.
You recently had a capsule collection with Osaka based boutique ‘Why Are You Here?’, how did the concept come about?
After Cerruti I was approached by ‘Why Are You Here?’ to do an exclusive capsule project for their store. For a number of seasons they strongly appreciated and supported what I was doing for my women’s collection, so it felt right to develop a made in Japan product with them as a fun project. I had a great time, the product apparently did very well for them, and so it was a great experience for both of us. We’re planning to carry it over into the next season, so I am very happy about that. It’s important to build trust and long-term relationships because ultimately it’s all about the people that you meet and exchange with that gives the pleasure. At least for me.
You’re re-launching your own collection for s/s09, was the decision to continue that route easy? Definately not in the present economic situation! It was a very difficult choice considering I am totally independent. But it felt to me like the right thing to do and the right place to put my heart and energy into.
Do you prefer to think that you’re picking up from where you left earlier or rather of this being a completely new start?
Every collection is in it’s way a continuation of the last. That said, it’s over a year and a half since I presented a collection under my own name, so things have changed a little and I’ve grown up as a person and designer and moved on. There’s certainly a new element to the collection. I’ll leave that for others to mull-over though, for me it’s really a spontaneous thing.
How would you describe your aesthetic in general?
That’s a tricky question because every adjective that I can find to describe my work I’ll just as soon contradict it with another. But I really believe in the now and here, I’m not interested in looking back, or doing historical or trendy things. It’s very graphic, linear, sober, (maybe some would even say stoic) and very much influenced, in a very spontaneous way, by nothing in particular: No big narrative (I can’t work like that) and no nostalgia, just now.
The new collection is mostly men’s with some unisex styles, will you present a women’s line as well?
Absolutely, I am planning on presenting Women’s in March in Paris, this coming year. Doing women’s wear is wonderful – I enjoy fully all the avenues of expression that it affords.
Speaking of womens wear, you’ve had some quite androgynous looks and unisex garments, how do you assort between women’s and menswear?
For me designing for men or women comes from the same idea, the same place. Aesthetic desires are different we know between the sexes, but deep down, we’re all the same.
Any specific plans for the future?
Being happy, sharing that with others and finding the right balance in life by taking time off!
Interviewed by Arto M.