Obscur
Born in Helsingborg in the south of Sweden, Richard Söderberg spent his childhood moving around frequently. Raised in a rather controlled environment, he developed an anti-statement mentality towards everything, a feeling which he kept inside while showing a normal face on the outside. Instead of sulking and withdrawing to his dark feelings though, Richard has preferred to turn them into something productive. His ambition and drive in everything he gets involved with has resulted in the birth of a label, Obscur, through which he expresses his feelings and personality in the form of garments. Draped fabrics, washed leathers and muted colours provide the signature elements to his work. At a young age of 23, he has already created several collections and continues to divulge his dark thoughts into his passion for clothing.
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How would you describe your relationship with clothing?
I’ve always been fond of clothes in whatever way they have approached me in life. They strike me as a very easy yet powerful way of describing your personality, that’s the main reason I am making clothes. It is a drift and even just wearing certain garments can sometimes cause a rush of adrenaline. This is very special to me.
How did you end up making garments?
From the day I started making my first garment I was enchanted. I just made more and more. Some projects came out good, some didn’t. I have been taught from failure and mistakes – practice makes perfect. I believe I’ve developed rapidly in the relatively short amount of time that I’ve actually been involved in the process. To grow from a one-man operation has been a huge experience to me.
“From the day I started making my
first garment I was enchanted.
I just made more and more.”
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How do you view criticism?
As long as you feel you are developing and challenging yourself enough, it keeps you going. This is definitely the case for me. Call me ignorant, but in the end I really don’t care what people have to say. People who detest me, people who don’t believe in me only trigger me and give me energy. Their negative energy gives me energy.
Tell about how you design garments.
My mind Is usually transcending and has developed throughout the years, and hopefully it will continue to do so. During certain times I pick up different thoughts and it all merges into a really misty picture in my head. It is an abstract feeling but strong. From this I usually start to sketch and often I take more concrete things I see and put them into the abstract picture in my head.
How does it develop from there?
From this point on I suppose I do what most designers do, drape themselves in fabric and prototypes and see what works and not. As time passes you get more and more knowledge on what will work and not. Especially when working with menswear because in some way you are quite limited in shape and form. The manufacturing process is by far the most difficult and important process of them all, this is really where my main focus is right now.
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How do you feel about exclusivity in terms of your label?
If I sell a billion garments or 100 garments, it really doesn’t matter to me. Limitations and exclusivity are really not my cup of tea. As long as I can continue to do what I love to do, it does not matter. Some brands that have been in the industry for some time get really picky about where they put their clothes, and in a way I can see why they do so, of course there is a limit of stock for particular areas. But when it comes down to a brand dismissing a store just because they don’t feel the store is “good enough”, I find that really ridiculous. The Obscur FW09 collection was shown at showroom Romeo in Paris, and will now be available world wide.
How would you describe the aesthetic of Obscur?
I’ll quote my manifesto: Obscur is not about being drawn to extremes, but rather an urge to refine classic silhouettes to perfection. Honest and powerful expression reveals the true design behind the garments, and therefore minimal styling is required. Achieving a pure esthetic can be difficult as there are many elements to consider.
Is there anything in particular that has influenced you?
There are no things that would be a constant influence on me. Right now I’m watching old Cronenberg movies and listening to the Sisters of Mercy. They are on of the things that keep me going in the right direction right now. Music and movies are a really good way of setting myself in a certain mood. I’m also really into some other things but you’ll have to wait for the new summer collection to see what they are!
Besides a growing availability for Obscur, do you have any other plans?
Hopefully I will have many of my goals reached and have a solid chain of process. My goal is keeping myself and Obscur alive to the world.
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view past collections at www.obscur.se
Interviewed by Arto M.