Werkstatt : München
The work of Munich, Germany based jeweller Klaus Lohmeyer can be found at some of the most acclaimed boutiques worldwide. The jewellery, all hand made in his atelier in the heart of Munich from materials such as silver and leather, is often defined by a refined roughness and solid build.
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Born and raised in the Bavarian capital, Lohmeyer studied jewellery design in a highly acclaimed German art school with a strong foundation in craftsmanship. After working in the field for a few years, He returned to finish his diploma, becoming a master craftsman – the highest level of distinction a gold and silversmith can reach. The first Werkstatt:München collection was presented in 1998, followed by annual presentation of collections in Paris and Munich.
The initial catalyst for the line of work was simple; being unable to find masculine jewellery to his liking. “But the main reason is the joy I take in the art of making jewellery – it’s just a beautiful work process using beautiful materials and beautiful tools”, Lohmeyer explains. “In all )
cultures throughout history men have worn jewellery as symbols of power, to denote wealth and status or as lucky charms. Where as today western culture seems to dictate that it’s almost only male musicians, punks and rockers that choose to decorate themselves with jewellery.” His pieces – rings, bracelets and pendants – all share a distinguishably heavy look. “I love this kind of rebellious edge to making jewellery which is not effeminate but for men. My intention was always to create pieces that were self explanitory, a handsome simplicity achieved through the use of strong symbols or through clarity and the careful balance of design proportions”, he adds.
The influence of natural elements can be seen in various parts of his work, silver taking the shape of earthy materials or animals, and the use of leather. “I have huge respect for the art of individuality and the close-to-perfection achieved and created by nature – like an animal or a wild flower. Of course, mine is an interpretation and never a reproduction – my aim and desire is to translate and reduce it to my understanding of aesthetic perfection for the piece of jewellery I am working on and capture the essence.” Take for example a rivet from his previous collection, inspired by alligator scales.
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The aesthetic has changed gradually over time but at the same familiar elements are still present, for example the use of skulls. “Combining a skull with a flower, for example, indulges the elements of romanticism and irony which contrast each other. I first started using skulls as a motif about ten years ago, but over time I’ve developed new crushes and delved further into exploring the canon of symbolism in classical tattoo vocabulary, the elementary forms found in nature – endless inspiration”.
Like the name suggests, everything is produced exclusively in the Munich workshop, the Werkstatt, which was opened at a new location in 2007. “I am a very honest person, so the development of new pieces is always born out of the creative act of crafting or making”, Lohmeyer says. “I cherish and even need to be in a comfortable environment to be able to create and make beauty.” The small team of Werkstatt:München has worked together for a long time, forging the sense of trust and understanding needed to achieve to desired working methods and results.
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The hand crafting often utilizes tools built specifically for a certain craft, such as hallmarks or special anvils and hammers. “Ultimately though, a piece of jewellery takes so many careful steps from beginning to end of the creative process that I do like to be present and hands on to be able to give our personal guarantee of perfection and our seal of approval.”
The connection between jewellery and fashion is a natural one, but Werkstatt:München has been notably present at some of the leading avant garde fashion retailers worldwide, among them Atelier New York and L’eclaireur in Paris. “Although our pieces are designed to be timeless, those into this type of fashion understand and appreciate out design philosophy. In the very beginning it was rather unusual for fashion boutiques to buy real handmade jewellery, but there was a desire for qualitative jewellery which could compliment and hold its own next to the clothing.”
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Aesthetically, the pieces do indeed compliment the more edgy and avant garde fashion, which is why many boutiques are carrying the line and why designers such as Ann Demeulemeester have chosen to work with the Werkstatt when designing and producing the jewelry for her collection. When asked about the relationship between his work and clothing, Lohmeyer puts it simply: “I suppose the relation rests on an individual’s emotive aspiration to wear beautiful and handsome pieces which in turn help to express a personal taste, style and character.”
visit www.werkstatt-muenchen.com
Interviewed by Arto M.