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Only a year
after graduating from Kingston University, native Londoner Sophie
Hulme had already launched a label carrying her name and presented
an appraised f/w collection for 2008. Her distinct style had
earned her the awards for student of the year and the best
collection, which contributed to the decision on launching her own
label. The first collection of women's wear combines elements of
military style, technical fabrics and sort of luxurious details to
create a very unique aesthetic.
Can you tell us a bit about your background?
I’m from North London, grew up in Barnet, and lived in and around London all my life - hence being a massive Arsenal fan.
Do you remember when you first got interested in fashion design?
I have always loved drawing and painting, especially the figure which I think led to creative interest and interest in fashion. I've also always collected interesting objects, clothes, toys etc., which really
influence me now and the way I design.
After finishing your studies, you proceeded to start your label rather quickly.
Well I guess I had always liked the idea of having the freedom
to design my own product. Then at the end of college the positive response to my final collection gave me the confidence to try it.
Did it
prove challenging to start your own brand so soon?
Certainly! The learning curve has been massive, there was just so much to get my head around in such a short amount of time. I really wanted to start with an A/W collection, so I just got stuck in! I'm still really learning, but I just have to be honest about that and prepared to ask. I think the main obstacle is starting so small because all suppliers want massive volumes, so you just have to build relationships with them so that they’ll accommodate you.
There are quite strong technical and military influences in your garments, is that something you've always liked and where does it originate?
I have always liked that - I've collected interesting pieces for a long time. I think I like menswear influences brought into women's wear, so not necessarily just military. I like to work from technical pieces with a certain toughness, I think this can bring an interesting angle into women's wear. |
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Sort of
redefining womens wear..?
I've never really liked very girly clothes so I'm more influenced by the protection and purpose of men's clothing.
Some
pieces have actually been sold to men as well, is menswear something you've thought about doing in the future?
I would seriously consider doing a line of menswear alongside but not for a few seasons, I
would like to establish the women's wear side first and give it a bit of time to evolve. But I'm really pleased when something does get sold as men's because I like to see the different ways it can be worn. So there will be some crossover in the outerwear but mainly in A/W collections.
Tell us a bit about your design process, how do you work?
First I go out and spend time finding interesting old pieces and objects which always contribute to my ideas. I then work with these pieces and an overall idea running alongside. Generally the concept will give me ideas of how to rework or treat found things. I'm planning on running each concept in 2 season blocks so the collection can evolve without being too stilted.
Your f/w collection will already be stocked at some big name stores like Selfridges, do you plan on expanding to other big stores or would you rather limit retailers to smaller boutiques?
I like having a variety. So I'd happily take on a few more big stores as well as interesting smaller shops, like B-store. I'm also really interested in collaborating with smaller stores to do specials so that the collections still has variety amongst them.
What can we expect from your upcoming collections?
The S/S has evolved from the A/W concept but has a different aesthetic and new ideas, as well as new pieces such as dresses, print pieces and jewellery. So the following season brings in a new concept, but will still have the brands handwriting.
view the
full f/w collection from Sophie at
sophiehulme.com |
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