Atelier New York
When speaking of avant garde menswear boutiques, there’s one name that certainly won’t go unmentioned. Atelier New York has a loyal clientele like many others, but the store can also take credit for being among the most influential retailers in the global menswear market. When Karlo Steel and Constantin von Haeften opened the store in 2003, the small space on Crosby Street was simply known as “A” – a name that can still often be heard used by regulars.
Originally catering to both men and women, Atelier decided to focus solely on menswear during the first year. Within a few years, the owners had already realized the need for more space. In late November last year, Atelier made the long awaited move to 304 Hudson Street. Even thought it was fairly centrally located, the new setting was quite different than the former spot on Crosby Street, which had a more secluded atmosphere. “I think our new location is more of a destination because it is in an area that isn’t really defined”, owner Karlo Steel explains, “at least not yet”. The area is in fact going through a redefining phase along with other boutiques, such as the Rick Owens New York flagship, which have recently opened in the area.
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The opening of the new store was celebrated in December with a large number of friends showing up to show their support. “To tell you the truth, I was very nervous…” Steel says. “I was wondering if anyone would actually show because it was cold and raining heavily, but we had a tremendous turnout. There was such an out pouring of support! I was really touched by the response.”
The new space, which is several times larger than the previous one, is certainly interesting. Co-owner Constantin von Haefen designed the interior, which was executed in collaboration with MR Architecture. “The idea was to strip the space down to its 19th century shell and then start from there”, Steel explains. With art work
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by Richard Serra and Joseph Beuys, and fitting rooms equipped with chairs by Comme Des Garcons, the tall new space is certainly eye catching, yet still stays true to Atelier’s original aesthetic.
The same can also be said of the clothes; Atelier has consistently stuck with many of the brands it started out with. “I think our style has changed very little, the essence remains the same”, Steel ponders. The studious selection of garments from designers such as Ann Demeulemeester and Carol Christian Poell sit alongside on the racks with Japanese labels Miharayasuhiro and Viridi-Anne, while footwear and accessories from Guidi, Augusta and m.a+ have taken over the window sills and tables. The style might be somewhat challenging to describe overall, but some prominent themes seem to reoccur in the clothing they carry. “I like the idea of non gender specific clothing; capes, wraps, etc.” Steel explains. “I like clothing that is either strict in tailoring or loose, destroyed, or decayed. I am very drawn to experimental fabrics or techniques as well as new shapes, which is hard to come by in menswear.” A majority of the garments share a palette of black, grey and beige – or non-colours, as Steel prefers to call them.
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For many of the designers who are stocked there, Atelier is one of very few, if not the only retailer in the US. Perhaps this also explains the close relationship with the likes of Maurizio Amadei, with whom Atelier collaborated to make a small selection of exclusive products. Japanese label Julius is set to do an installation in the store in February. While the store’s selection is strong and prominent, a few new additions will be seen this season, including Boris Bidjan Saberi and Comme Des Garcons Homme Plus. Otherwise, Steel doesn’t see a need to change the lineup. “Quite honestly, I don’t really see any labels out there that we really need other than the ones which are already with us. I’m very happy with our selection.” Needless to say, Atelier will certainly hold its position as the forerunner in the menswear market with the help of a new location, a provident vision and of course, an almost cult-like following.
Atelier New York
340 Hudson Street
www.ateliernewyork.com
Written by Arto M.
Photos by Jo Jo Asuncion