Lift Tokyo
When speaking of conceptual retail in Tokyo, one name is bound to come up. Having been in operation for more than 15 years, Lift, nowadays compromising of 3 stores and a showroom, is considered an institution on the global fashion market while owner Masahiro Tsunoda has been responsible for introducing some of the most exclusive labels to Japan.
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We met Masahiro Tsunoda in his showroom/gallery Lift Atelier over a glass of fine Italian wine, as he prepared for his latest trip to Milan and Paris to see the latest men’s collections. He is an extremely busy man, presiding over 3 different boutiques as well as collaborating closely with the most well-respected international designers working today, not to mention handling distribution and public relations for several of them. Additionally, Tsunoda keeps busy by designing unique objects and displays to complement the themes and exhibitions of each season’s collections. He is also an extremely handsome man, usually dressed head to toe in Carol Christian Poell or one of Lift’s other labels. It is easy to imagine him and his partner Manami acting as muses for these designers. When we met Tsunoda, he had just launched the new LIFT blog, in which he has documented many of his numerous collaborations and achievements. The theme behind the Blog is “roots” , hence the first inspiring image of the ancient tree roots used to introduce it. We asked him to go over some of this history with us.
In the early 90’s, Tsunoda was working independently as a freelance buyer and window dresser, travelling frequently between Tokyo and New York. Meeting a variety of designers and creative people sparked the inspiration to open a retail of his own, which he chose to do with his partner Manami in November 1993. The location was pinpointed in Daikanyama, a rather quiet area compared to other neighbourhoods in Tokyo. “Daikanyama was the perfect place for us to open in the city, at the time the area was less commercial and had very few fashion boutiques”, Tsunoda explains. “It was more of a residential area and we wanted to create our own personal project more in the way of a workshop or gallery-type space.”
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The name Lift was chosen spontaneously by Manami. “We checked in the Dictionary for the precise meaning and found the definition: ‘A way to help someone or something’. We liked this a lot and thought it would be the perfect name for what we wanted to do. The theme of LIFT began as ‘protection of the weak’.” The second Lift location, dubbed The Circle, was opened in 1995 with the desire to promote and develop new, younger talent. One of the main labels at the time was Vexed Generation, whose infamous ninja hooded parkas became an instant hit. From there on, Lift began working with more European designers, among them Carol Christian Poell, who Tsunoda became acquainted with a few years later and began carrying the cult designer in 1998. “Meeting Carol Christian Poell in New York for what was really his first collection was a real sensation to me, it changed my point of view on fashion and buying.”
In August of 2000, a new location, Lift Ecru was opened. The new space featured labels such as Carpe Diem and Martin Margiela. As the space was larger, it gave the opportunity of organizing special presentations and installations for various designers. This in turn allowed a deeper interaction with designers, particularly Poell, whose work has been showcased through various exhibitions over the years. “We could organize the space to reflect the concept of his work from season to season, beginning in 2001”. Another unique installation was done with Maurizio Amadei; a wood panel with the silhouette of a body cut out of it by Amadei was placed at the entrance of the store, creating a shadow inside during daytime and similarly a shadow outside the store during night time. “These kind of things create the meaning for our close acquaintance”.
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Collaboration also creates the framework for Tsunoda’s buying process. “Our mission when we established Lift was to challenge and break down fixed ideas in order to create new things, this is true for the buying as well.” Since beginning to work with Carol Christian Poell, the focus towards collaborative efforts has strengthened immensely; Lift now handles distribution in Japan for various labels and designers, ranging from Damir Doma to Guidi. Lift Atelier, a showroom space, was opened in order to help promote and collaborate with a new generation of designers. “We were introduced to visual artist Alessandro Tinelli by Issei Fujita, the designer of Lumen et Umbra, and since then we have worked together on various projects.” Among these are various presentations for Guidi and Damir Doma’s Veil project – a visual exhibition which was later shown in NYC and Paris. “We usually launch these project with the designers themselves in attendance. In 2008 we collaborated with Luca Laurini again on the “O-Project”, this was especially close to our hearts as we could invest a great deal of value and sensibility into the work.”
In 2004, Lift Etage was opened. “At this time Maurizio Altieri followed Carpe Diem and Sartoria with his new label Linea, and we introduced it exclusively for Tokyo. The mission of the store became the pursuit of authentic creativity.” Lift also collaborated with various other designers such as Gustavo Lins, whose work was presented at Lift Etage for the first time abroad. The Paris based Brazilian created an installation in which a human torsos made of paper, clad in his garments, were hung from the ceiling in a straight path from the store entrance to the fitting room door. In 2006, The Circle was re-born as Lift Position, complete with a totally new concept and direction; to break down all borders and categories within and around “fashion” such as gender in order to more strongly combine fashion and art. The opening Exhibition was done together with Bless, and served as good example of the new approach.
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Coexistence has undoubtedly been the key to everything that is Lift as the boutique’s strength has derived from a close relationship with some of the most creative minds in this niche corner of fashion. Whether it’s a showroom presentation for Label Under Construction, developing unique furniture with Munoz Vrandecic or working with Maurizio Amadei to create Project 7 which would later form into his acclaimed label m.a+, Masahiro Tsunoda has proven that everything at Lift is done with sincerity and utmost passion. Tsunoda sums up his desire as simply wanting to work with people they like and trust. “We need this close relationship to work effectively. This creates the real meaning of our close acquaintance.”
view a gallery of Lift installations here
visit lift-net.co.jp and LIFT blog
interviewed by Marc R.
written by Arto M.